On to Caen

The Abbaye aux Hommes - not looking particularly Norman in architectural style!

Monday I got myself up and moving in good time to make the bus up to the station – I was extra glad not to be pushing my suitcase uphill, given that the weather had broken and it was raining lightly, but no need to break out the raincoat for such short outside ventures. At the station I had time to treat myself to a coffee and a pain au raisin – yum! They announced the train, and then left us all standing outside it on the platform – I was beginning to wonder if they were going to add another car on at the back, but we finally crowded on, and got off only 5 minutes late. The journey was an easy one with a number of stops; the last one was at Lisieux, where the enormous basilica of St Theresa of Lisieux looms over the town. Just too much station in the way...

Abbaye aux Hommes - cloister

At Caen, I found my way to my hotel (in Rue 11 November), and dropped my bags off in their luggage storage so I could get out and walk. My initial wanderings got me to an Atomod travel depot where I could get a bus pass for the day  - that really helped;  Caen is not the easiest place to get around!  The first planned stop was the Abbaye aux Hommes, to be followed by going across town to the Abbaye aux Dames.  These two foundations were established by William of Normandy, who became William the Conqueror, and by his wife Matilda. Unfortunately the two were cousins in some degree, and were threatened with excommunication. 

The Abbey church - St Etienne - definitely not very Norman in the upper levels

Their atonement took the form of building these two institutions – not just a mere-smear church for each, but an enormous set of buildings, each of which was attached to a church. Sadly, what remains is not much (other than the foundations) of the originals, but a continuous upgrading, with most of what presents being paneled and painted in 18th-century style. The Abbaye aux Hommes was a Benedictine foundation, but looks much too plushy for Benedictines! Parts of it have now been taken over by the Town Hall for events and weddings and receptions and the like (I don’t think the Benedictines would approve!). There was also a big display on the bombing of Caen in an effort to drive the Nazis out - the Allied bombers did an immense amount to damage to the city - but didn't manage to take out the Orme bridges, which was the whole point of the raid. Unfortunately a lot of the post-war architecture is not beautiful!

The Abbaye aux Dames cloister, and Sainte-Trinite beyond

In much the same way, the Benedictine foundation called the Abbaye aux Dames has been largely taken over by the Regional Council of Normandy. There is a lot of restoration being done on one wing in particular, and the rooms around the cloister walk are largely given to formal events.  

Fancy having your meetings in the Salle Alexis de Toqueville!

Out in the grounds a stage has been erected, and it is a venue for a wide variety of summer concerts. Stonework is being recovered and displayed, but the general effect of the furnishings and decoration is from the 18th rather than 11th century.  

Restored roof bosses on display - love this grin!

Sainte-Trinity church at the Abbaye aux Dames has had less refurbishment, and its Norman orgins are clear – though the red stained glass in the sanctuary where Duchess Matilda’s tomb is, is perhaps not quite in period!

Classic Norman church shapes

From that church, I walked down to the base of the castle, and the third church I wanted to see – St Peter’s Church, which is a Gothic masterpiece. 

Over-the-top ornate!

It was marred only slightly by the playing of a local organist having a lesson on the Bach a minor prelude (BWV 543) and making rather a mess of it.  His teacher was being very patient, but I wanted her to bug him about learning the notes before letting lots of people hear it. Very stop-start!

St Pierre de Caen

The last item on my list was the Chateau de Caen, which faces on to St Peters. But rather than climbing all the way up, I took the bus to the University stop, and walked through from the highest point.  Wonderful views, walls to climb (if you’re in to climbing – I’m not!) and there are several museums within the walls. 

Chateau de Caen - motte & bailey

The Museum of Normandy was closed...

 What I’d not taken into account was the Monday seems to be a dark day for arts things, and the Museum of Normandy and the Musee des Beaux Arts were both closed though the castle itself remained accessible. I’ll see whether tomorrow allows any time. There were no buses going my way, so it was a good walk back to the hotel, where I was able to check in, take of my shoes, make tea (Tilleul tisane, which is lime blossom!) and make a start on the blog.